Monthly Archives: December 2010

#9 Rome

I came into Rome in the morning and checked into a seedy hostel near the train station.  I booked a bed in an eight person room and staked my claim to a top bunk near the window.  I had a guide book but I hardly needed it – the place is so dense with visitable […]

#8 Naples

I spent my last hours in Palermo scouring ancient ruins and deserted Roman gardens for a place to piss.  I walked for hours and miles, guided by providence, ignoring the growing protests of my swelling knee.  As night fell I wended my way to the train station and bought an overnight ticket to Naples.  As […]

#7 Catacombe dei Cappucine

“These are meant to be those catacombs,” he said. I looked where he pointed. A cassocked monk with exactly the haircut you might imagine stared out from an admissions booth. Next to him a walkway led down, presumably to the catacombs, and next to that I could see beyond the gates into a functioning graveyard […]

#6 Cooking with Fire

The grandeur of the villa led us to eat most of our meals family style, at the long dining room table.  Everyone was excited to cook so for most meals, to get a culinary word in edgewise one had to content oneself with side dishes, and wait until midnight when snacking began.  Making dinner inevitably […]